Lovely, Landlocked Laos
We loved Laos. We absolutely adored our time there. From the winding Mekong River to the karst scattered countryside and all of the lovely, smiling people we met along the way – we enjoyed every minute. Even after three weeks we wished we had more time to venture to the southern half of the country.
However, Laos isn’t an always an obvious choice destination. Compared to the iconic & instagramable images of its neighboring countries, like Thailand and Vietnam, Laos sometimes doesn’t even make it on the radar of foreign travelers. Even we were guilty of almost skipping it in favor of more alluring destinations like Sapa or HaLong Bay to the east. In the end, we talked ourselves into visiting the landlocked nation for one short week on our way to Vietnam. But before we knew it, we spent 25 lazy days in just one portion of the county.
Hidden Charm
In those 25 days we extensively explored northern Laos getting off the well-trodden “Banana Pancake Trail.” Instead of partying our way from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng and Vientiane like most backpackers, we also wandered our way to small, lazy towns in the north for hiking and trekking trips in the jungle. We spent our time relaxing, recharging, and experiencing a different side of Asia than we had seen during our previous month in Thailand.
Unlike other Southeast Asian countries, Laos’s charm isn’t obvious to the naked eye but instead felt in the soul of the country, its culture, and its people. Even through its dark past and complicated present, the people of Laos have a palpable hope for the future and seem to live every moment in the present. The country is filled with a wonderful energy of simplicity and happiness regardless of the prevalent poverty and destruction. It’s nearly impossible not to adopt their optimistic mentality and slow, appreciative way of life.
A Change of Pace
We felt very fortunate to experience Laos in such a slow & relaxed manner – not many travelers have the same luxury. Without the freedom of time and being able to fully immerse ourselves in the history, politics, and local way of life we definitely wouldn’t have experienced both the beauty and pain of this enchanting country. Although not everything about Laos is pleasant or beautiful, visiting is a life changing and eye-opening experience. To see and feel the extreme poverty and lasting effects of war with your own eyes leaves a lasting impression. It makes you appreciate your own blessings and admire the resiliency of the Laotian people.
Laos is a beautiful, complicated, and heartwarming country. It’s one our favorite places and we dream of returning one day. If you have the time and resources, we highly recommend experiencing Laos in a similar fashion: with no rush, no stress, and an open mind. It may seem like there is “nothing to do” but in truth, that’s how you experience the best of Laos.
Below is a breakdown of our 25 days in the lovely, landlocked nation of Laos.
Day 1: Travel Day + Mekong River Boat
February 1, 2017
- Cross from Thailand into Laos
- Huay Xai/Chiang Khong border crossing
- Mekong River Slow Boat Day 1
- Huay Xai to Pak Beng
- Overnight: Pak Beng Guesthouse
Day 2: Mekong River Boat + Luang Prabang
February 2, 2017
- Mekong River Slow Boat Day 2
- Pak Beng to Luang Prabang
- Explore Luang Prabang
- Night Market
- Buffet Dinner
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 3: Luang Prabang
February 3, 2017
- Explore Luang Prabang
- Mount Phou Si
- UXO Information Center
- Hotel Pool & Planning
- Utopia (Restaurant & Bar)
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 4: Luang Prabang – Nong Khiaw
February 4, 2017
- Travel from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw
- 4 hours by minibus
- Explore Nong Khiaw
- Sunset on the bridge
- Drinks at Q-Bar
- Overnight: Pho Sai Guesthouse
- Private bungalow overlooking the Nam Ou River
Day 5: Nong Khiaw
February 5, 2017
- Fishing with Laotian Locals
- Phouvong, Nok, Nok, & Bus
- Spearing, diving, & netting for fish in the Nam Nga tributary
- Picnic Lunch – catfish, sticky rice, banana, & papaya salad
- Karaoke Bar w/ Beer Lao & Papaya Salad
- Overnight: Pho Sai Guesthouse
Day 6: Nong Khiaw
February 6, 2017
- Explore the Tham Pha Tok Caves
- Sunset at the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint
- Movie Night @ Delilah’s Hostel
- Overnight: Pho Sai Guesthouse
Day 7: Nong Khiaw – Muong Ngoi
February 7, 2017
- Breakfast at Coco Home Restaurant
- Used wifi to research next destinations
- Boat ride to Muong Ngoi
- Explore Muong Ngoi
- Area caves & viewpoints
- Hike to Huay Bo village & back
- Overnight: Rainbow Guesthouse
Day 8: Huay Bo
February 8, 2017
- Early morning backpacking trip back to Huay Bo
- Explore the village & surrounding rice paddies
- Dinner with Mr. Kee & his family
- Wild deer, bamboo, & sticky rice
- Overnight: Samsanouk Guesthouse
Day 9: Travel Day
February 9, 2017
- Full day of travel
- 160 miles, 14 hours
- Early morning hike back to Muong Ngoi
- Boat to Nong Khiaw
- Tuk Tuk to Bus Station
- Mini-bus from Nong Khiaw to Oudom Xai
- Bus from Odoum Xai to Luang Nam Tha
- Luang Nam Tha Night Market
- Overnight: Soulivong Guesthouse (Room #9)
- Best Beds Ever!
Day 10: Nam Ha Trekking
February 10, 2017
- Trekking Trip into the Nam Ha National Protected Area
- 2 day, 1 night tour with Green Discovery
- Hiked through rubber plantations and protected jungle
- Visited a local Akha village inside the park
- Banana leaf picnic dinner of eggs, pork, and harvested rattan
- Built a fire & drank homemade Lao Lao
- Overnight: Bamboo Huts next to the Nam Tha River
Day 11: Nam Ha Trekking
February 11, 2017
- Early morning nature walk with our guides, Ket & Ling
- Bird watching
- Tracking wild deer
- Breakfast – eggs, rice, & frog soup
- Complete hike out of the Nam Ha National Protected Area
- Learn how to buy & craft traditional achetes with Ket & Ling
- Drinks at the Manitkong Bakery with Marjolein & Paul – our new friends from the Netherlands that we met trekking
- Overnight: Soulivong Guesthouse (Room #4)
- Also super comfy beds
Day 12: Travel Day
February 12, 2017
- Travel Day
- 195 miles, 6 hours
- Bus from Luang Namtha to Luang Prabang
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 13: Luang Prabang
February 13, 2017
- Apply for travel visa at Vietnamese Consulate
- Drop off passports
- 3 day processing
- Trip planning & relaxing at the hostel pool
- Utopia
- Drinking & Volleyball with new Canadian friends Lee & Riley
- Late night bowling at the Luang Prabang Bowling Alley
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 14: Luang Prabang
February 14, 2017
- Explore Luang Prabang
- Bamboo Bridge
- Local Shops
- Temples
- Laotian Massages
- Night Market
- Valentines Day Dinner at Utopia
- Indulged in our first American meal – burgers & fries!
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 15: Luang Prabang
February 15, 2017
- 6 AM Monk Alms Ceremony
- Kuang Si Waterfall
- Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Center
- Utopia
- Overnight: Khounsavan Hostel
Day 16: Vang Vieng
February 16, 2017
- Pick up passports & visas from Vietnamese Consulate
- Travel via minibus from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng
- 115 miles, 4 hours
- Highway 13
- Explore Vang Vieng city & countryside
- Vang Vieng Nightlife
- Sakura
- Viva Vang Vieng
- Space Bar
- Overnight: Real Backpackers Hostel #2
Day 17: Vang Vieng
February 17, 2017
- Tubing, drinking, & bar hopping down the Nam Song River
- Pasta dinner at the best hidden restaurant without a name
- Overnight: Real Backpackers Hostel #2
Day 18: Vang Vieng
February 18, 2017
- Rent bicycles & explore the countryside
- Blue Lagoon
- Tham Phu Kham Cave
- Sae Lao Project
- No-name cave & lagoon
- Vang Vieng Nightlife
- Reggae Bar
- Space Bar
- Overnight: Real Backpackers Hostel #2
Day 19: Phonsavan
February 19, 2017
- Travel via minibus from Vang Vieng to Phonsavan
- 150 miles, 8 hours
- Explore Phonsavan
- Market
- Quality of Life Association
- Overnight: Nice Guesthouse
Day 20: Plain of Jars
February 20, 2017
- Tour of the Plain of Jars
- Sites #1, #2, #3
- Tank Ruins
- Rice Wine Distillery
- Mine Advisory Group (MAG) Information Center
- Overnight: Nice Guesthouse
Day 21: Phonsavan – Sam Neua
February 21, 2017
- Visit Ben & Jerry #1 & #2 Bakeries
- The best breakfast pastries & desserts!
- Travel via minibus from Phonsavan to Sam Neua
- 150 miles, 8 hours
- Explore Sam Neua
- Night Market
- City park & carnival
- Dinner at Dan Nao Muang Xam Restaurant
- Overnight: Phasouk Guesthouse
Day 22: Sam Neua
February 22, 2017
- Planning Day
- Explore Sam Neua
- Wandered streets
- Night Market
- City Park
- All meals at Dan Nao Muang Xam Restaurant
- The BEST fried rice
- Overnight: Phasouk Guesthouse
Day 23: Viang Xai
February 23, 2017
- Rented motorbike & drove 20 miles to Viang Xai
- Explored countryside & city
- Tour of Viang Xai Caves
- Home of the Patet Lao political party
- Sam Neua night market
- Dinner with new German friend, Robin, at Dan Nao Muang Xam Restaurant
- Overnight: Phasouk Guesthouse
Day 24: Sam Neua
February 24, 2017
- Planning Day
- Lunch with Sam Neua’s three person expat community
- Night market and park carnival
- Overnight: Phasouk Guesthouse
Day 25: Travel Day
February 25, 2017
- Cross border into Vietnam
- Bus from Sam Neua to Thanh Hoa
- 200 miles, 10 hours
- Bus from Thanh Hoa to Hanoi
- 100 miles, 2 hours
- Overnight: Banana Tree Hostel
Are you planning a trip Laos? Comment your destination plans below & let’s connect!
