In September I found myself in Seattle for work and actually managed to tack on a few vacation days before heading back to the Midwest.
Over a long weekend I embarked on a 500 mile road trip around Washington’s Olympic Peninsula – my first ever solo camping trip. I mapped out an advantageous itinerary that encompassed the entirety of the peninsula and Olympic National Park. From hiking trails, iconic sights, and unique points of interest, I was bound and determined to see it all.
Within 5 hours of my journey, I realized that I had grossly underestimated the depth and complexity of the peninsula. After lingering longer than anticipated at every stop, I ended my first day only completing a fraction of my original itinerary. That evening I decided to slow down my trip and focus on truly experiencing the natural beauty of the area. I pared down my hit list and selected only a few things to see and do each day instead of trying to cover the entire peninsula in three short days.
Once I alleviated the pressure of completing a marathon tour of the Olympic Peninsula, I started to appreciate everything a lot more. I reflected on my experiences and focused on enjoying the simplicity of camping & being immersed in nature. I took the time to savor my morning coffee, take in amazing views, and appreciate the insane biodiversity of the Pacific Northwest.
My change of pace also further contradicted my original thought that three days could be enough time to experience the entire peninsula. After my road trip I feel confident that an average person would need at least 5 – 7 days just to scratch the surface. Beyond the iconic & popular stops there are also multitude of backcountry trails, hidden lakes, and secret beaches to discover that would take months to explore.
Like me, not everyone has an infinite amount time to dedicate to exploring every inch of the Olympic Peninsula. However, I have put together my itinerary for exploring a few highlights over the course of a three day long weekend. Hopefully it’s a helpful start for others to map their own route & select areas to visit.
Table of Contents
Olympic Peninsula Road Trip Overview:
Total Miles Driven: about 500 miles
Hours in the Car: about 15 hours
Olympic Peninsula Road Trip Route:
I drove the peninsula counter-clockwise so I could take the Bainbridge Ferry across the Puget Sound to cut down my drive time while also taking in views of the great Seattle skyline. This route also allowed me to easily end my trip back at the Seattle Tacoma Airport where I was taking a red eye flight back to Milwaukee on Sunday night.
Transportation:
- Enterprise Rental Car (from SEATAC)
- Bainbridge Car Ferry
Camping in Olympic National Park
Instead of free or dispersed camping, I opted to stay at Olympic National Park’s campgrounds for safety as a solo traveler. However, there a ton of options in the area for camping both in established campgrounds & more secluded areas. The Olympic Peninsula has free public lands, national forests, state parks, and native american reservations that all have options worth looking into.
To avoid carrying a bulky tent in my luggage, I used my Eno Hammock System (including a much-needed rain fly!) for sleeping each night. The whole set up was super lightweight, comfortable, and most importantly, it kept me off the wet ground during the nightly rain storms. A hammock isn’t always the most convenient option for a camping trip, but I loved it as a solo traveler for its trans-portability and simple set up/take down each day.
Camping Meals
To keep costs low, I stopped at an area Trader Joe’s to stock up on food before I left Seattle. I purchased the camping basics – pasta for dinners, instant oatmeal for breakfast, granola bars for lunch, and an excessive variety of snacks for the drives. Purchasing my own food ahead of time saved me a ton of time & money while driving around.
There are a few grocery stores and restaurants located in the peninsula’s largest cities – Port Angeles and Forks – but since most of the area is comprised of protected lands there is not much else along the way. Variety in grocery options looked a little limited and the restaurants that are available can be expensive or inconveniently located.
Cost Breakdown:
Total Cost: $313.68
- Park Fees: $0 (America the Beautiful Pass)
- Campsite Fees: $40 (2 nights)
- Groceries: $29.04 (7 meals + snacks)
- Car Ferry: $18.70 (Passenger + Car Fee)
- Rental Car: $125.00
- Gas: $100.94
Itinerary: 3 Day Road Trip through the Olympic Peninsula
Day 1:
- Miles Driven: about 155 miles
- Hours in Car/On Ferry: about 5 hours
Car Ferry: Seattle to Bainbridge Island – Washington Department of Transportation
After staying in downtown Seattle for work, taking the ferry across the Puget Sound was the definitely the easiest & most scenic way to start my journey. Although driving a car on a ferry sounds like a complicated & hazardous task – it’s actually really easy!
I found myself in Pioneer Square the day before so I stopped by the ferry terminal to ask a few questions & orientate myself before an early morning departure the next day. Reservations are not required to ride the ferry – simply show up 20 – 30 minutes before the scheduled departure and line up in the car queue.
The cost to bring a car onto the ferry is pretty reasonable – under $20 – and it also covers the cost of the driver as well. More details about taking a car ferry from Seattle found here!
Sequim Region
Dungeness Spit (State Park & Wildlife Reserve)
The Dungeness Spit is a remarkable land feature located on the northern coast of the peninsula. At 6.8 miles long, it is the longest natural spit in the United States and it continues to grow a few feet every year.
The spit serves as a vital land feature by protecting the coast from rough winds & crashing surf while also creating a safe, calm bay for the area’s wildlife to live & raise their young. With the exception of a few areas designated solely for wildlife, visitors can walk the entirety of the spit to the Dungeness Lighthouse – about five miles in. It’s a great shoreline hike for bird watching, beach combing, and exploring the shore.
Entrance to the Dungeness State Park is free, but a fee is required if you want to walk out onto the spit itself – technically called the Dungeness Wildlife Refuge. The fee is $3.00 and all proceeds go to support the maintenance and preservation efforts of the spit and its inhabitants. If you don’t have an interest in walking on the spit you can view the spit for free from various viewpoints both in and outside of the park.
Hurricane Ridge Region
Hurricane Ridge – Olympic National Park
A trip to Olympic National Park is incomplete without a stop at Hurricane Ridge. After an 18 mile drive up to the ridgeline you are treated to pristine views of the Olympic Mountains to south and Victoria Island & the Straight of Juan de Fuca to the north.
There are a variety of different hikes & vantage points along the ridge including the popular Klahhane Ridge & Hurricane Hill trails. However, I reached the ridge too late in the day for a big hike, so I opted to instead enjoy the scenic drive and a complete a short 1.5 mile hike along the Cirque Rim & Big Meadow loops. Both are perfect for anyone low on time (or energy!).
Lake Crescent Region
Marymere Falls
An easy 1.8 mile out & back hike (0.9 each way) to a beautiful waterfall. Mostly flat trail through old growth forest with a slight climb at the end.
Overnight – Fairholme Campground
Located right off Highway 101, the Fairholme Campground sits peacefully on the aqua blue shores of Lake Crescent with all 87 campsites surrounded by lush green trees covered in moss and lichens.
The campground has a variety of both RV and tent sites including some walk-ins located at the lake’s edge. Arriving a little too late to snag a primo waterfront spot, I “settled” for a hilltop site with a view of the blue lake framed by the trees. I highly recommend getting to Fairholme early enough to claim a waterfront site – just imagine having coffee with a view in the morning!
Campsites are first come first serve and cost $20 per night. The campground is also equipped with potable water, bear boxes, and flush toilets, but no showers. All campsites have a firepit and picnic table.
Check the Fairholme Campground status here.
Day 2:
- Miles Driven: 102 miles
- Hours in Car: 2.5 hours
Sole Duck Valley Region
Salmon Cascades
A roadside stop where you can watch spawning coho salmon swim upriver & jump through waterfalls and around other obstacles. The spawning season only happens at certain times of the year so make sure to double check in at the ranger station for the status of the salmon run during summer & fall months. (I was lucky enough to see the tail end of the run on my trip!)
Sol Duc Falls
A beautiful 1.6 mile (0.8 mile each way) out & back hike to Sol Duc Falls through lush, temperate rainforest. This was my favorite waterfall & hike of the trip. If you are forced to choose only one waterfall hike, I would definitely recommend Sol Duc over Marymere Falls.
La Push/Mora Region
Rialto Beach
Rialto Beach is a rocky stretch of shoreline on the western edge of the peninsula with towering sea stacks standing on either edge of the beach. This coastline is less popular than its La Push neighbors but is just as beautiful. I loved Rialto Beach so much that I returned to cook & enjoy breakfast the morning after initially visiting too!
La Push First Beach
Located inside the reservation town of La Push, First Beach is the easiest to access since you are able to drive right up to the shore. Sea stacks frame First Beach, both up close and in the distance, making it a great spot to observe the area’s natural beauty and take great photos.
La Push Second Beach – High Tide
In my opinion, Second Beach is the prettiest beach in the region. The coastline is filled with large and medium sized sea stacks and rocky tidepools scattered throughout. From anywhere on the beach you’re surrounded by beautiful views of crashing waves, soaring birds, and rock formation reflections in the wet sand.
I enjoyed exploring Second Beach so much that I visited it twice – at both high and low tide. I definitely preferred my pictures from high tide but really loved searching through the tide pools during low tide.
Unlike the drive up to First Beach, visitors to Second Beach earn their panoramic coastal views via a 0.7 mile access trail. The hike is all downhill on the way in, but consequently, all uphill on the way out.
La Push Third Beach
Third Beach is probably the least visited beach in La Push – likely because of its 1.5 mile one way access trail. Curious about the often-overlooked third beach, I committed to the 3 mile round trip hike and was rewarded with a beautiful, sprawling coastline virtually all to myself. I enjoyed the scenery and solitude of Third Beach but didn’t find it as interesting or inspiring as Second Beach. However, if you’re looking for seclusion and virtually zero tourists – this is your beach.
If you plan to set up camp on a beach during your stay in the peninsula, I highly recommend getting permits for Third Beach over Second if you want a quiet, natural experience. Exploring both beaches in the evening I saw over 15 tents set up on Second Beach compared to a mere three on Third Beach.
Overnight – Mora Campground
Located a short drive from all of the major sights & trails in the area, Mora Campground is an awesome place to position yourself for exploring Olympic’s wild coast. The campground itself is well-maintained and set a few miles inland from the coastline, which protects all the campsites from the nearby strong ocean winds and surf.
All campsites are first come first serve and cost $20 per night. There are 94 sites across five loops (A – E). Each campsite is drive-in accessible and contains a fire pit and picnic table. The campground is also equipped with potable water and flush toilets, but no showers (bear boxes are not necessary).
Check the Mora Campground status here.
Day 3:
- Miles Driven: 275 miles
- Hours in Car: 5 hours
La Push/Mora Region
Rialto Beach
This morning I woke before dawn, packed up camp, and returned to Rialto Beach to cook breakfast & enjoy the beach before anyone else arrived. I had the entire coast to myself for at least an hour as I sipped my coffee & ate instant oatmeal. I used this time to relax, reflect and take in the amazing scenery around me. It was so peaceful & therapeutic.
La Push Second Beach – Low Tide
I returned to Second Beach for the 9:30 AM peak low tide just to see the tide pools. It involved another 1.4 mile round trip access hike but was completely worth it. The beach looked completely different. A receded water line exposed the bases of a few sea stacks uncovering the hidden marine habitats.
I took my time examining a cluster of accessible tidepools on the north end of the beach. The pools themselves were very interesting & filled with colorful annenomes, muscles, sea snails, and some small crabs. I had really hoped to find a starfish, but the cards didn’t land in my favor.
Ruby Beach
Ruby Beach is another easily accessible and popular destination for panoramic ocean views. It is on beautiful bit of coastline sprinkled with massive sea stacks and piles of driftwood. This beach can be enjoyed via a vantage point from the parking lot or exploring first hand by taking a short trail down to the shore itself.
Kalaloch Beaches (scenic driving & lookouts)
The Kalaloch Beaches, creatively numbered 1 – 5, are more sandy and flat than the rocky wild coast I had just come from. In comparison, these beaches weren’t nearly as interesting. However, they would be the perfect stop on a hot summer day for some swimming or sunbathing. I stopped at Kalaloch Beach #1 for one last breathtaking view of the ocean before my route took me inland.
The iconic Kalaloch Lodge and Campground are located along this flat, beachy stretch and would make for a good lunch or picnic stop.
Lake Quinnalt
Lake Quinnault took me by complete surprise. I initially decided to visit this lesser known area of the peninsula to make up for missing the Hoh Rainforest (it was closed for maintenance during my visit). I found this region to be one of the most beautiful and intriguing places on the whole peninsula.
My favorite part of the area was the rainforest walk. A 0.5 mile guided loop leads you through a beautiful section of temperate rainforest filled with towering cedars, plush mosses, and a deep ravine covered in ferns and other vegetation. Coming from Wisconsin, I have never seen anything like it and spent almost an hour exploring the trail & taking everything in.
I also accidentally stumbled upon a beautiful lakefront trail that took me from the temperate rainforest to the shores of Lake Quinnalt. From there I hiked along the water’s edge & admired the amazing views of the crystal clear lake and low hanging clouds – just enjoying the solitude and natural beauty.
Lake Quinnalt was an unexpected highlight of my long weekend on the peninsula. From the rainforest loop to the lakefront trail I was constantly surrounded by interesting and lush plant life – it was the perfect exploration stop.
Big Trees
I totally didn’t plan it this way, but my final day on the peninsula ended up being the day of big trees. While driving along highway 101 I saw multiple signs alerting me to the location of a “big” or “world record” specimen of a few tree categories – so naturally I had to stop at all of them. All of the pit stops were cool – just amazing to see a tree of that size & to think about how long it has been around.
I saw the world’s largest:
- Cedar
- Sitka Spruce
- Douglas Fir
Return Drive
From Lake Quinnalt I completed my loop back to Seattle through Aberdeen and Olympia in order to catch my red-eye flight back to Milwaukee. After returning my rental car and boarding my plane I officially concluded my first solo trip!
If you have more time:
If you’re lucky enough to have more than three days, I highly recommend you spend additional time exploring each area of the park. Take your time exploring & really get to know each unique region per your personal interests.
Below I have included a list of the places I wanted to go but ran out of time to do. I also plotted all of these areas on my road trip Google Map for reference.
- Cape Flattery
- Shi Shi Beach
- Hoh Rainforest (unfortunately closed while I was there)
- Forks
- Elwah/Olypmic Hot Springs (closed during my visit)
- Hurricane Ridge Day Hikes
If you have less time:
If you have less than three days to experience the peninsula my advice is to pick one area that interests you the most and stick to it – whether mountains, coastline, rainforest, inland lakes, etc. Choose to extensively explore one or two areas instead of trying to jam pack the entire peninsula in one short trip.
The peninsula is larger than you think and you definitely don’t want to spend all of your time driving!
Have you ever visited the Olympic Peninsula? Comment some of your favorite destinations below!
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